Wednesday, March 5, 2014
I have always thought that the hardest thing about winter climbing is finding someone to climb with. There is special gear and a special attitude to sometimes embrace the occasional adverse weather. As the season set on Stu and I set out to look for routes. We spent a day in the car on back roads and getting lost on approaches in central utah while following an old book of ice routes that we hoped had begun to form. After 10 hours we came back to Park City after that early day in November mostly empty handed.
One of the routes we had set off to find was called "sixthwater." It was a hundred foot ice fall known to form just up stream of the popular "fifthwater" hot springs. Stu and I never found it but a month later I wrangled some partners and tried again.
By this time the weather was colder and the road was closed low in Diamond Fork canyon because of snowfall, lengthening the hike in to the route. Nate, Kat and I parked the car where the road became snow and loaded our packs. We didn't know what to expect so we nearly brought everything. We followed the canyon 5 miles up to he hot springs then continued on breaking trail in the fresh snow. After 3 bends in the canyon we came around to find a pristine fall climbing up before us. We climbed one at a time, the difficulty never enough to require ropes or gear. We rappelled off the route, dipped in the springs and made it back the 5 miles to the car after dark.
Thursday, November 7, 2013
The skiing is not good. Actually it is probably very bad. Ten inches of new soft snow is not even close to enough to hide the rocks, branches and logs that are exposed during the warm months. The best you can hope for is some wind to have pushed the soft new snow into protected areas along ridges where it can accumulate into drifts deep enough to ski. Or, you ski it anyway. The relatively soft P-Tex that is used to make modern ski bases is the most vulnerable. The early season is the best time to turn a nice smooth base on your new skis into a scratched up mess that looks more like tree bark. It wouldn't be called rock surfing without a few bumps on the way.
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Julie joins me at the top of the Castle in Castle Rocks, Idaho. It was her tallest route. We shared the new rope she got me on the four pitch 5.7 called Big Time. We were there in Southern Idaho for the Idaho Mountain Festival where she lead a yoga clinic each morning for climbers who had traveled from all over the region to climb, trail run, bike and socialize.
Monday, September 9, 2013
Monday, July 29, 2013
On the far right side of the Mule Hollow wall in Big Cottonwood Canyon is the Jamcrack. Last weekend my buddy Dan gave me a call and asked if I wanted to go Bouldering. I said, "sure, ill bring a rope." Seven hours later Dan, Hayden and I had finished the 4 pitch route with the 1 long hour approach. It was a good outing and far from the original plan of staying only a few feet off the ground.
Monday, June 24, 2013
A major classic that towers out of the Salt Lake Valley are the West Slabs of Mount Olympus. The climbing is of an easy grade but really long as in 10-12 pitches of roped climbing and 1660 feet of quartzite climbing. I suggested the route to a new friend who had never done a multi-pitch climb. There is no better introduction to long climbing than the longest route on the Wasatch Front.
Friday, June 14, 2013
On a hot and sunny 100 degree day in the Salt Lake Valley we took a trip up Big Cottonwood Canyon to chase some shady climbs. Just above the first roof on a fairly new route that was bolted in 2007 Nathan rests it out on "CTR"- 5.10a/b